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Balik Pulau

Penang with the volume turned down — padi, orchards and laksa, half an hour over the hills from the city.

By Wei-Ling Tan, George Town-based writer⚠ Researched carefully — but I haven't walked this one myself yet ·

"Balik Pulau" means the back of the island — the rural, green, west side of Penang that most visitors never cross the hills to reach. It's where the padi fields, durian orchards and Malay fishing villages are, and where a lot of Penangites go for a slow Sunday and a bowl of -cheap asam laksa. Half an hour from George Town, and a different island.

What Balik Pulau is for

It's the antidote to George Town — no crowds, no heritage checklist, just farmland, kampung roads and food. Come for the asam laksa (Balik Pulau's is famous even by Penang standards), for durian in season (roughly June–August ), and to cycle or drive the padi backroads past orchards and the coast. Point yourself at Balik Pulau town (see below) and let the afternoon go slow.

Getting here

Balik Pulau sits over the central hills from the city — reachable by Rapid Penang bus or by /car in around 45 minutes from George Town, and it's a popular half-day or cycling trip. There's little public transport within the area, so a car, scooter or a booked cycling tour makes it far easier.